Our last port of call was Mompesson’s Well, a watering hole, safely distant from habitation, where villagers left money which their supporters replaced with food and medicine. Then we hiked back to the car, too weary and footsore to do more than drive home; but Eyam, with its unspoilt beauty and horrifying history, has left such a deep impression that we’ll surely return to see other famous sites like Cucklet Delph ‘Church,’ where Reverend Mompesson preached al fresco, and poor Rowlande Torre caught a last glimpse from afar of his fiancée Emmott Sydall. Altogether, a profound and poignant experience – highly recommended.

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